Prepare the Reactor Pipes

Cut the pipes to length:

• Outer pipe (25.4mm ID): Cut to exactly 500mm length
• Inner pipe (12.7mm OD): Cut to exactly 500mm length
• Reactor rod (12mm solid): Cut to 450mm length

Deburr and clean:

• File all cut edges smooth - remove all burrs
• Clean inside and outside with wire brush
• Ensure rod slides freely inside inner pipe with ~0.5mm clearance

Assemble the Reactor Rod

Mount the rod inside the inner pipe:

• Insert the 12mm rod into the 12.7mm inner pipe
• Center the rod so it doesn't touch the pipe walls
• At BOTH ends: create 3 small solder/weld points spaced 120° apart to hold rod centered
• Keep contact points minimal - just enough to hold position
• Rod should be centered but able to "vibrate" slightly

Create the Concentric Pipe Assembly

Insert inner pipe assembly into outer pipe:

• Slide the inner pipe (with rod inside) into the 25.4mm outer pipe
• Inner pipe should be centered in outer pipe with ~6mm gap all around
• Leave both ends open initially for fitting connections

Seal ONE end of outer pipe:

• This will be the COLD end (intake side)
• Weld or use high-temp epoxy to cap/seal the outer pipe only
• Inner pipe remains open for vapor flow

Add Pipe Fittings

Cold End (sealed end of outer pipe):

• Drill hole in outer pipe cap for inner pipe to pass through
• Attach vapor inlet fitting to inner pipe opening
• Seal around inner pipe where it exits cap

Hot End (exhaust end):

• Inner pipe: Attach fitting for engine intake connection
• Outer pipe: Attach fitting for exhaust input connection
• Both pipes remain separate with proper fittings at this end

Build the Bubbler System

Prepare the bubbler tank:

• Use a metal container (3-5 liters) - old oil can works well
• Drill hole in lid for vapor pickup tube
• Install pickup tube reaching ~3cm from bottom
• Add second fitting for pressure/vacuum equalization
• Install drain valve at bottom for fuel changes

Connect intake valve:

• Attach adjustable needle valve to vapor outlet
• This controls vapor flow from bubbler to reactor
• Use 6-8mm high-temp silicone hose for connections

Install Air Mixing System

Add air intake valve:

• Install T-fitting between bubbler and reactor
• Attach adjustable needle valve for air admission
• This allows fine-tuning of air/vapor mixture
• Air intake should have small filter to prevent debris

Connect to Engine

Remove or bypass carburetor:

• GEET replaces the carburetor function
• Connect reactor outlet (inner pipe hot end) directly to engine intake valve
• Use appropriate reducer fittings for your engine size

Connect exhaust:

• Remove original muffler
• Connect engine exhaust to reactor outer pipe inlet (hot end)
• Add extension pipe to outer pipe outlet (for final exhaust to atmosphere)

Mount and Secure Everything

Position reactor:

• Mount reactor HORIZONTALLY on engine frame
• Use metal straps or fabricated brackets
• Allow for thermal expansion - don't over-tighten
• Keep away from hot engine surfaces where possible

Position bubbler:

• Mount lower than engine (allows gravity feed)
• Secure firmly - will vibrate during operation
• Ensure all hose connections are tight with clamps

Magnetic alignment (Pantone's recommendation):

• Use compass to find magnetic North
• Orient reactor so HOT END points North
• Some builders report better results with this alignment

Break-In Period (CRITICAL)

Initial conditioning of reactor rod:

• Fill bubbler with 100% PURE GASOLINE (no water yet)
• Start engine normally with small amount of fuel priming
• Run at medium speed for 20 minutes continuous
• Adjust valves for smooth operation during break-in
• Rod is being "magnetized" and surfaces are conditioning

Testing and Tuning

Test #1 - Pure Gasoline:

• After break-in, test with 100% gasoline
• Engine should run smoothly with valve adjustments
• Note: May run slightly differently than with carburetor
• Adjust three valves (intake, vapor, air) for best performance

Test #2 - Water Introduction (Start Small!):

• Mix: 75% gasoline + 25% water in bubbler
• Start engine on pure gas, then switch to mixture once warm
• Takes ~1 minute for reactor to reach operating temperature (~800°C)
• Adjust valves as needed - will require different settings than pure gas

Test #3 - Increase Water Content:

• If successful at 25% water, gradually increase to 50%
• Then try 75% water / 25% gasoline (Naudin's proven ratio)
• Each change requires valve re-tuning
• Higher water content needs longer warm-up time

Engine Won't Start or Stalls Immediately

• ✓ Ensure reactor is fully warmed up (run on pure gas first)
• ✓ Check all connections for leaks (use soapy water)
• ✓ Vapor valve may be too open - close slightly
• ✓ Add more air via air intake valve
• ✓ Prime intake with small amount of pure gas to start

Runs Rough or Hesitates

• ✓ Reactor not hot enough - allow longer warm-up
• ✓ Water percentage too high - reduce to 25% and work up
• ✓ Air/fuel mixture needs adjustment
• ✓ Check for vapor line restrictions
• ✓ Rod may need re-conditioning - run 20min on pure gas

Works on Low Water % But Fails at Higher %

• ✓ This is normal - higher water needs more precision
• ✓ Reactor must be VERY hot (~800°C) for high water content
• ✓ May need rod length adjustment (trim 1-2cm and retest)
• ✓ Magnetic alignment may help - ensure hot end faces North
• ✓ Some engines work better than others - 4-stroke easier than 2-stroke

No Improvement or Getting Worse Performance

• ✓ Break-in period not sufficient - run 1+ hours on pure gas
• ✓ Rod not properly centered - should "float" with minimal contact
• ✓ Exhaust flow restricted - check for blockages
• ✓ Inner/outer pipe gap too large or too small - check dimensions
• ✓ Reactor too short or too long for your fuel type